Entrepreneur, programmer, avid student of life. I make useful things, and share what I learn.

Iceland

I just spent a few weeks in Iceland, and here's what I found interesting:

Mossy Lava

If I had to describe the landscape in only two words: “mossy lava”.

Much of the country looks like the lava had just recently dried, cracked open, and grew some moss. Endlessly fascinating. This little video doesn't show it well enough:

Everyone under 30 is in a band

This is a phrase I heard often: “Everyone under 30 is in a band,” or is doing something creative and artistic in some way.

I never found out why it has such a creative culture, though if you've got any good explanations, please let me know, because I think it's fascinating how this became the norm.

A few musicians I met with said peer pressure challenges you to do something unique, like being in art school. Nothing really felt like it was being done for commerical gain. Just creativity for its own sake.

Very comfortable life

Though Iceland is about the same size as Britain, it has only 320,000 people, as compared to Britain's 58 million people. People kept saying, “Everyone knows everyone here,” or, “It's a small-town life.”

Iceland is one of the safest places you'll ever go. My first day, in a crowded bar, I saw 5 guys leave their table to step outside for a smoke, and one of them left his expensive iPhone in the middle of the table, unattended for 15 minutes. When I mentioned this to my friend, he said, “Oh that's how you show that you're coming back to that table.” When I said, “But someone might steal it,” he laughed and said, “This is Iceland!”

I heard many stories from people who had never locked their car or door. Someone told me that in the town he grew up in, they've asked people to stop leaving their keys in the ignition, only because a drunk teen recently took someone's car out for a joy-ride and got pretty hurt.

According to the Human Development Index, Iceland has the highest level of economic and civil freedom and is the “most developed country in the world”.

The ground is about to explode!

Everywhere you go, little holes in the ground are steaming or bubbling. A constant reminder how volcanically and geologically active this island is.

See this video for an extreme example. (The geysir hits me at the end, and it's damn hot!)

Ancient letters þ and ð

When my ex from Sweden heard someone speaking Icelandic, she was fascinated. She said it was “the ancient tongue”, like a 1000-year-old precursor to Swedish. She could make out some words. Turns out this is because Icelandic is a mostly-unchanged version of ancient Norse language, since they were isolated on this distant island, whereas Swedish, Danish, and Norwegian all came from Old Norse but changed over the years.

Even now, they develop new vocabulary based on native roots instead of borrowing from English.

Icelandic also uses some ancient letters no longer used in any other language:

thorn, called “thorn” (þorn, really), looks like a p, but it's pronounced “th” as in “thing”.

eth, called “eth”, a d with a line through it, is pronounced “th” as in “the”.

These aren't rare, they're everywhere, as you can see here if you have the fonts installed, or read more on Wikipedia.

Everyone in Iceland speaks English with a gorgeous accent with rolling “r”s. Many also speak basic Danish in a way that's understood by Swedes and Norwegians.

No family names!

Remember in Lord of the Rings, how everyone would introduce themselves like, “I am Gimley, son of Gloin” or “I am Aragorn, son of Arathorn”. Well in Iceland, that's what their names really say!

If your name is Sarah and your dad's name is Eric, your name would be “Sarah Erics-daughter” and your brother Jeff would be “Jeff Erics-son”. Get it? (The actual spelling would be Ericsdóttir and Ericsson.)

Since there are no family names, you do not have the same last name as your parents or even other-sex siblings. Because of this, everyone is called by their first name, even politicians.

An interesting contrast from Japanese and many other cultures where people are known by their family name. Read more at Wikipedia.

Family-focused, redefined...

My friend's wife told me about her 5-year-old son with a previous boyfriend, current daughter with current husband, and she said she has two siblings each with different fathers, concluding, “This is very Icelandic.” Sure enough, my friend told me his family's story is about the same.

I had read a New York Times article about this last year, so I was prepared for it. Single mothers are very normal. Many women have a baby with a boyfriend, with no pressure to get married, then may often have another baby later in life with a longer-lasting relationship.

That said, it felt like such a family-friendly place. Maybe it's the safe-and-cozy feeling the whole country gives, but it feels like a great place to raise a kid.

Waterfalls

Of course with so many glaciers, there are waterfalls everywhere. Here are a few I saw in one single day. Of course I'd always run to the bottom to see how close I could get, and always got completely soaked from the mist.

Crystal clear water

The water that comes out of the faucet in any building is some of the best spring water in the world.

Tourists over the last 10 years started asking for bottled water, to which the Icelanders would have to explain that tap water is cleaner than bottled water : putting that perfect water into a plasic bottle would make it worse! Eventually they relented and started putting the tap water into plastic bottles for the tourists at a huge markup and hopefully a good laugh.

Most of the hot water for Reykjavík (the biggest city) comes from the big lake an hour away, where the water is heated with geothermal/volcanic help, and piped into everyone's homes, already hot. Instead of a water-heater in the home, like most of us are used to, they have a water-combining device that combines the super-hot incoming water with the separate pipe of cold water, to make usefully-hot water for showering and washing.

Now when I saw that lake, the water was so freakishly clear that you could see 20 meters down just standing by it, so I knew I had to go in....

Scuba!

The American continental plate and the Eurasian continental plate meet in that clear lake, and you can go scuba diving in the 20-meter (60-feet) deep fissure between the plates.

Though the water is an icy 2-4 degrees C, and I didn't know how to scuba dive, I knew I wanted to go in, so I took lessons for a week (also in icy water!), and did my very first dive in this fissure.

At one point, it's so narrow I could put one hand on America and one hand on Eurasia. Very cool. A little video of the before-and-after of my first dive is here:

Jökulsárlón: the iceberg lagoon

Finishing with the most breath-taking thing, Jökulsárlón is the name of the place where the biggest glacier reaches the ocean. The water makes huge icebergs break off the glacier, but they're trapped in a lagoon with a narrow entrance out to sea, so you can take a little boat through hundreds of these amazing blue-white icebergs.

Click here to watch this video in high-definition for full effect, or watch the lo-fi version below:

Comments

  1. Lisa Marie (2008-09-09) #

    I have long wanted to visit Iceland and this post only reinforces that! Thanks for such great details of your trip.

  2. Jake (2008-09-10) #

    Derek - Thanks so much for sharing your amazing experience. As many times as I've flown Iceland Air with that teasing stop in Reykjavík, my dream of venturing outside the terminal has yet to come to fruition. Did you compose the music? I especially enjoyed the tune while viewing the glacier.

  3. Rob (2008-09-10) #

    That's it, I'm moving to Iceland.

  4. Seamus Anthony (2008-09-10) #

    Awesome. My girlfriend has been saying she wants to go there for years. I think I've just been convinced.

  5. Derek (2008-09-10) #

    Jake! I can't believe you were there, but didn't venture out of the airport! OK well I guess I've done the same thing in Amsterdam and Belgium so shame on me, too.

    Next time AT LEAST take a 3-hour layover inbetween flights and catch a short taxi to Blue Lagoon, which is right next to the airport.

    As for the music in the videos, I forgot to give credit, but no I wanted something Icelandic so I searched the iTunes Music Store.

    The iceberg music is a song called "Icelands" from the album called "Icelands" and the artist is only listed as "soundscapes - relaxing music".

    The violin piece in mossy lava and while I'm diving is "Icelandic Hymn" by Fiddle Fever.

  6. Billy Grisack (2008-09-10) #

    wow. Derek...with so many under 30's in a band, what do you think of the opportunities for a children's musician from the USA there? I do schools and libraries here. Is there a need for that? Could I be like the Wiggles in reverse? I am worried about raising my kids here in the states and thought seriously about moving to another country...ICeland alwasy comes up.

  7. sunspot_mike (2008-09-10) #

    I just spent a few days in Iceland in August and it was one of the coolest places I've ever been to (no pun intended.) That Blue Lagoon has to be one of the most alien spots on the planet and I'd never seen a puffin up close before, nevermind fifty thousand!

    Hope you're at the TAXI conference again this year, Derek, your presentation was one of last year's highlights!

  8. tj milian (2008-09-10) #

    iceland looks and sounds incredible!

  9. TJR (2008-09-10) #

    ....Yeah, I'm ready to move there too.

  10. Steve Shapiro (2008-09-10) #

    Derek: You've been to a lot of great places, and as one of your readers I can say that you are doing a lot of traveling for us. What place would you say is the best to live/work everyday, as opposed to the best place to vacation/sight-see. Really, the only thing I'm tied to in the U.S. is my family. My wife and I have long been curious about moving out of the States.

  11. John L (2008-09-10) #

    That seals it - we're going to a Sigur Ros concert.

    Great report Derek. Thanks.

  12. John Taglieri (2008-09-12) #

    That settles that...I know where my next vacation will be...I'll be scuba diving Iceland! Great recap Derek...

  13. Claire (2008-09-12) #

    Derek, I can't believe you jumped into that water without all your scuba gear covering your head!! It was SO freezing... tell me it didn't give you an 'icecream' headache!! :O

    I loved reading your take on the adventure... brings it all back. And you're dead right - 'mossy lava' definitely covers it.

  14. Derek (2008-09-12) #

    Hey Claire! Yeah believe it or not, the day I did my big scuba dive was the ONE HOT SUNNY DAY on the entire trip. So jumping in with no hood or gloves was "refreshing". smile

  15. Brad (2008-09-15) #

    "Everyone under 30 is in a band".

    I'd love to hear about what happens to an Icelander at the age of 30 that causes them to drop creative pursuits, but you didn't get into it.

  16. Brad (2008-09-16) #

    So maybe everyone over 30 is in a band, or.....

    "Soylent Green is PEOPLE!!"

  17. Mike (2008-09-16) #

    Re: Everyone under 30 is in a band

    One word: Weather. When the weather sucks, people stay inside and do creative things (or do illegal drugs..... or both). I think this is why Minneapolis, Chicago and Seattle have vibrant music scenes, crappy weather. Just an opinion but weather has shown to be a huge driver for human behavior

    Great blog, I discovered you through Godin and you've been great to read, thanks!

  18. Mike (2008-09-25) #

    Thats great..Yes indeed Iceland is among the top performing economies in the World...But let me ask

    How friendly are the people there?

    (0Towards Foreigners more especially towards those of Darker Skin)

    What would be the Average Cost of living for an Individual per month?

    In Estonia the Males hate foreign men ocz they steal their Girls...How about Iceland how are the women there?

  19. Derek (2008-09-26) #

    A friend of mine is visiting Iceland in October to go to a conference, and asked my advice, saying they wanted to sit in hot water, hike, and see the towns. Here's what I recommended: (this was really just written for her, but thought it'd be useful to post here)




    SITTING IN HOT WATER:

    Bring a bathing suit!

    Unless your plane gets in late at night, go to Blue Lagoon immediately from the airport, since it's right next to the airport. There are shuttles.

    If you do get in late at night, then instead go to Blue Lagoon a few hours before your plane departs a week later. It'll help you sleep on the flight. smile

    Spend 2 hours there. Pay the extra 400 kroner for a towel.

    SEE THE TOWNS:

    Well there's really only one, within driving distance. And you'll be seeing Reykjavik as part of the conference. So that's enough. The cities/towns are not what's cool about Iceland.

    RENT A CAR:

    Yes, absolutely. Not at the airport, but in Reykjavik, when the conference is done. Your hotel can recommend a local car rental and they'll come pick you up @ the hotel and everything. No need to plan this much in advance, as October is the slow season.

    HIKING:

    You probably want to go to Snaefellsnes :http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sn%C3%A6fellsnes - just a 2 hour drive from Reykjavik, and plan to spend a day there. In fact, once you know the day, book this hotel immediately : http://www.budir.is/Overview/

    That's the best one. Spend a day and a half driving and hiking around Snaefellsnes. Also lots of the things you'll see will involve some walking around.

    GOLDEN CIRCLE:

    Leave Reykjavik in the morning, and:

    - drive one hour to Thingvellir National Park - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%9Eingvellir where you walk around the area and make sure you look in the lake, including the fissure I went scuba diving into! Water is so clear it's crazy.

    - continue on 30 minutes to Geysir : http://vimeo.com/1569158 - hang out there for a bit

    - then go another 15 minutes ahead to Gulfoss (the Niagra Falls of Iceland) - http://vimeo.com/1635509

    They call those 3 sights the "Golden Circle" and everyone has to do it. A day well-spent.

    There's a decent countryside hotel right at the Gulfoss falls (I think just called Gulfoss hotel) - you can find here: http://www.accommodation.is/ - if you don't feel like driving the 90 minutes back to Reykjavik that same day.

    BUT PLEASE DRIVE THE SOUTH COAST to Jökulsárlón - http://vimeo.com/1601989

    It's about a 6-hour drive, each way, from Reykavik, but there's also a few good farm-hotels near it, and you HAVE to see this place. Amazing.

    The drive there is amazing, too, by all the glaciers, driving through the other-worldly mossy lava!

    Plus you'll see a huge waterfall I forget the name of now, that if you take the steep steps up to its top has a great 2-hour hike up there where the same river has about 5 waterfalls in a short span!

    Most of the waterfalls you see here are from that one spot :http://vimeo.com/1635509

    It's about the halfway point between Reykavik and Jökulsárlón so you have to stop there.

  20. KC (2008-10-15) #

    Derek!

    Crazy! Artemis and I were just in Iceland in July and it was one of those places that is better in reality than what you imagined!

    We rented a car and did a tour around the island. Getting OUT of Reykjavik was when things really got interesting. The landscape changes so much and you could practically stop anywhere, spend 3 or 4 days hiking and still not see everything there was to see in just that little area. The next time we go, we'll stay longer at each place (we were usually only at each stop for a night).

    You might like some of the photos from our trip:

    www.flicker.com/kcrusher

    Great to hear someone else appreciates it as much as we did. Hopefully the tourists respect the island - in some areas we saw some rather disturbing habits of tourists - walking where they're not supposed to, leaving trash behind, etc.

    And the water! Better than anything I've ever had, straight from the tap!

    Cheers!

  21. Ingvi Thor Kormaksson (2009-03-21) #

    Just had to comment on this very good travelogue. We Icelanders are always so grateful when someone says something nice about our big country with the small population. Especially today, when we've become a laughing stock because of our failed economy. - As a Reykjavik citizen I want to add that I grew up going to the swimming pool(s) at least once a week and for a while as a grown-up I went every day for nearly 20 years, 198-2000. Now I go only 3-times a week; hot pots and steam baths, maybe the best thing the country has to offer.

  22. Denis Dion (2009-09-18) #

    Mille mercis pour ce partage. J'ai pris plaisir à vous lire et regarder certaines de vos vidéos (celle de l'Inde en autre est particulièrement «réflexive...»

    Merci

    Denis Dion

  23. Christian Pescosta (2009-11-23) #

    very inspiring like always
    sometimes we focus on our too little things
    in life and business
    thank you

  24. Omar Omar (2009-12-23) #

    Hey Derek, it was a pleasure meeting you up here. Don't hesitate to contact me again when you come back, maybe I can take you to Landmannalaugar (http://www.landmannalaugar.info) and hike the Laugavegur (http://bit.ly/69dSjF) ..the most amazing trip you'll ever embark on, 55km hiking, plan 3 or 4 days smile
    Yes! That was the thing I wanted to do, but couldn't. Ran out of time. I hear it's amazing! Next time.... -- Derek

  25. Gordon (2010-02-22) #

    I discovered your blog from your 2009 TED talk and it's been brilliant reading your entries here. This one in particular!

    I lived in Iceland for about a year when I was 8 (1980) and I still have very vivid memories. In the winter some of the waterfalls freeze solid which is amazing. The aurora borealis. Camping in a cave on a black volcanic beach. Iceland is a pretty amazing country.

    I'm really curious what I'd think of it as an adult.

  26. Jean-Baptiste Collinet (2010-08-24) #

    I'm right back from Ísland...

    Two weeks of pure bliss!

    Since you all commented about the natural wonders of the country, I have nothing to add...

    Nothing but ONE thing: people there are plain awesome. There are NO stupid people in Iceland. Not even a single one.

    Come to France and as soon as you walk the streets, you can be pretty sure to face a narrow-minded dumbass.

    Hey, before moving to Norway, than to Sweden, I was born and raised in France and I know what I talk about!

    Weird how minds gather. I sent you a mail yesterday about my trip to Iceland.

  27. Debbie Lawrence (2010-10-13) #

    Derek, thank you for sending me this link! I had a coworker from Iceland several years ago. She came back to visit, and said I could come to visit any time. Now I'm definitely going to take her up on it!
    by the way, I'm black, and she didn't seem to think that would be a problem. I'm also totally blind, so I'll be interested in finding out about that population in general, but musicians specifically.

  28. Almira F. Hagen (2010-11-13) #

    Thank you for sharing a such wonderful information in Iceland. I had been in Dennmark with my former husband and I loved Dennmark. What called my attention was that the general pupulation live a very frugal and simple life. I admired how people kept brand new their old goods by taking a good care of what they own. Also they enjoy bike rides not only in the city but in the rural areas. Thanks. Almira

  29. Gaurav C (2011-03-13) #

    Hej Derek,

    Having been following Iceland for a while and incidentally landing on this post, I just made up my mind to visit Reyjkavik, perhaps during Easters. Hope I can catch a Music-fest!

  30. David (2011-09-20) #

    If you are interested in learning more about Iceland, I highly recommend the music documentary "Heima" by the wonderful Icelandic band Sigur Ros. There's a ton of footage of Iceland in there and a lot of great commentary by the musicians about the environment and culture.

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